Apple Country Rukhala

Apple Country (Rukhala)

A sharp incline marks the pitted road leading to the green and red farmhouse that echoes the colors of the forests and the apples. In the heart of the prosperous Kotkhai belt in Himachal, Rukhla is a combination of startling scenic beauty, delectable , apples, quaint customs and age-old hospitality. An ideal getaway for the couple seeking solitude, this Adventurehills hideaway, comes complete with long walks through shady avenues, picturesque niches for that 'secluded' picnic, a cozy swing where the sunset spills to your feet and much more. 

Winter, spring, summer or fall, revel in the myriad seasons at Rukhla. Summer brings golden hills with trees standing bare and desolate. In spring the verdant valleys get covered in fluffy blossoms of pink, white and purple. Soon the fruit-laden boughs bend to kiss the ground, as the air is redolent with the smell of luscious apples, ripe cherries and juicy apricots. Winter is accompanied by frosty winds and stark landscape; trees with iced limbs stretch to reach the sun.

The Apple Story: Apples are the main money-spinners in this region, with popular varieties being Royal, Golden and Granny Smith or Ruspippen. The season stretches through the year from sowing seedlings in December-January to harvesting ripe fruit in August-September. Surprisingly, in the month of March, crisp weather and low temperatures are needed for the green shoots to sprout. Good rains, no pests, ample sunshine and a healthy dose of luck results in an annual bumper crop. So buckle up and drive to Rukhla to romance the apples!  

A fairytale farmhouse on a hillside complete with sloping roofs, wooden floors, rafters and fireplaces. Echoing the typical hill architecture style, the house is a duplex with many windows and a wide verandah at the front. The farmhouse offers three spacious bedrooms, each with picture postcard views, a dining room with an open kitchen, and a sitting area that overlooks the garden. A quaint arrangement, which makes you feel at home.

The warmth of the kitchen infiltrates each room, driving away the chill. As you climb to the first floor, the house groans reassuringly, settling deeper in its foundations! The dining-cum-sitting room has a fireplace as well as an angeethi to keep you warm. It's quite a thrill to see the pines being whipped by frozen winds as you sit pretty, warm as toast! One bedroom has the luxury of a fireplace while the other two juggle heaters and extra quilts to ward away the cold.

The garden is a burst of color with a Radha-Krishna temple occupying one corner. A wrought iron swing is prominently placed, overlooking the apple orchards.

The interiors are simple with an accent on local materials and colors. Nothing screams flamboyant, as the theme is homely and cozy. You can dive into thick quilts for a cuddle as your glowing cheeks mirror the red embers in the fireplace. Or enjoy a mid-morning drink in the garden as the sun warms your back and the wood smoke-tinged air tempts you to catch 40 winks.

Dig into the wholesome 'sidcoo', a delectable local specialty you just won't be able to resist. They are steamed wheat cakes stuffed with a mixture of lentils, opium seed paste and spices that are eaten hot and fluffy with oodles of ghee. For a variation you might want to try the sweet ones that are stuffed with jaggery. Sidcoo freaks swear that when accompanied by a glass of chilled chhach and a bowl of hot lentils, it rivals the best gourmet selections! Start your day with a selection of fruit (when traveling in fruity season) and a glass of lassi. The Himachal version of this popular yogurt drink is milder and less bodied than its Punjabi counterpart. Lunch is simple fare, usually vegetables, dal with roti and rice. Dinner is on the lines of lunch with few local dishes included for variety. Food is vegetarian with an odd egg thrown in. Hardcore meat-eaters would have to forgo their staple.

Though a cook will prepare all your meals, you can on occasion turn chef and whip up special surprises for dinner. Picture this, a table set for two, bathed in candlelight and a fire licking the grate -- it doesn't get more romantic than this. The best is yet to come. No chopping and grinding, no dishes and you don't even have to clean up that after-dinner mess. Surely you will agree that things are never so easy back home! Meals are generally fixed with little scope for last-minute delights. Any special selections would require advance notice, as the supplies would have to be brought from Theog or Shimla. 

What does a couple look for when planning a honeymoon? A beautiful location, good food and lots of solitude! At Rukhla you have the wish list plus good weather and oodles of fresh air. You have crisp morning sunny afternoons and dusky evenings. The days stretch out before you endlessly and each option is more pleasant than the last.

When you feel like company, walk a kilometer on a curving road to a tiny temple that is dedicated to a serpent. The locals will gladly regale you with legends to do with the origin of the shrine, if you wish. Pay your respects, then turn around to gaze at the most beguiling landscape. The area abounds in lovely locations just right for an informal meal. Carry a basket with sandwiches, fruit and something to drink. Spread that cloth and tuck in. Simple food never tasted so good. With the velvety moss beneath you and the sun on your back, a nap just has to follow!

The adventurous can try a 1-km jungle walk, which cuts through the forests to reach a rambling forest rest house. Though the path is steep, it is short enough to attempt. Stop as many times as your lungs demand en route as the scenery never fails to thrill.The water babies can drive to Chagaunti (12 km/ 25 mins) -- the point where the rivers Giri and Chagaunti meet. Spend the day by the frothy river and if hungry, dip in those fishing rods for some fishy delights.

For those staying more than 2 days, a full day trip to Chambi-Kuppar (40 km/ 2 hrs) is suggested. The gushing waterfall tumbling gently over rocks can be the perfect shower during the summer months. So carry a pair of shorts and a tee -- you can have your fun under the rushing streams of the waterfall. 

Slip into the traditional mode and get the blessings of the local deities. Devote half a day for exploring the ancient Kiari Temple (10 km/ 20 mins) and the Deori Temple (12 km/ 30 mins). The former is a 300-year-old monument dedicated to Durga, while the latter houses an incarnation of Durga and an idol of Langara Vir. The structures with monastery-like conical roofs and bold carvings in both stone and wood are indeed worth a visit.

Note: The temples are not open to non-locals. And even residents who don't belong to Rukhla are not allowed inside. Women are not permitted to enter the interiors, so they place their offerings at a window ledge on the side.